Tuesday, July 29, 2008

我的第一个同胞CS Host


I had already booked a bed at a youth hostel, but out of impulse, I did a search on CS just to see if there were any interesting members in Kunming. Tao's profile caught my attention at once because it looked as though he was a true yogi. Yoga is in nowadays. There are loads of people who practice it, but true yogis are as rare as authentic TCM doctors. I sent Tao a message immediately to ask if he could possibly host me for a night or two. He replied promptly and said yes.

Tao was cautious not to reveal his address to me. He said he would meet me at a coffee shop. I think it was sensible of him to take such precautions in the wake of the lack of trust and accountability in today's Chinese society.

Tao had an ice hockey game that evening. I was really surprised that he played ice hockey. What a high carbon emission game, I thought. Imagine the amount of fuel needed to cool down the stadium!

I arrived at the coffee shop very early. When Tao finished his game and drove to the coffee shop, I had waited there for about an hour. I was glad that I passed his inspection from through the window of his car. He took me home.

On the way, Tao asked me what I did. Like many times before, I again stumbled over words over this simple question. What am I? Permaculture activist? Unwaged voluntary worker? Freelance translator? Global trotter in search of the Tao? I was not sure which identity would fit this particular context.

Tao was obviously irritated by my ambiguity because the next morning he asked me the same question again. It took me a lot of explanations to clear his doubts. We had no time to discuss anything further, as he got busy soon after. So I left to see my anthropologist friend.

I texted Tao to ask him if I could sit in on his evening class. He said no but offered me a special discount for a trial session which I gladly accepted. The session was a little too challenging for me, but I more or less managed to do most of the postures. It felt good to stretch the parts of my body that had rarely been exercised.

Tao was a very good teacher. The standard of his class was true to his fame as the first Chinese to graduate from the esteemed Vivekananda yoga school in India.

On my last night at Tao's, we finally had a chance to have an open-ended chat. He gave me some interesting and insightful perspectives over my mid-life crisis.

I was blessed to have made my first stop at Tao's in my quest for the Tao in amazing Yun'nan...

Thursday, July 24, 2008

There was only a faint tinge of blue in the smoggy sky despite that it was a sunny day. The air was stagnant and filled with suspended particles. In the filthy polluted river, lots of dead fish floated in the toxic water. Some neighbour died and his/her family has set up a shack on the narrow pathway in front of our apartment building, as the venue for their mourning ritual which featured mahjong playing, deafening firecrackers at regular intervals, the loud and frantic singing of a hired street band and of course endless eating and drinking... I braved through the shack, a run-down bridge with a "Dilapidated bridge. No passing" sign on both sides (the sign has been put up there for ages but the bridge has not been repaired) and some dirty streets laden with garbage and an occasional dead mouse. Finally after carefully crossing a road where lots of drivers would turn a blind eye to the red light, I reached a college campus which was the only place nearby (within half an hour's walk) that was suitable for a stroll. However, I was stopped by the guards at the gate. They told me that the college was closed to the public. I tried to argue with them but to no avail...

ENOUGH!!!

Fortunately I am escaping to my shangri-la the day after tomorrow. But I feel very bad for leaving my family behind to struggle in this miserable slum in the monstrous city.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Bird Talk: Birds that Laugh and Birds that Feed on Flowers

笼中的笑翠鸟

B发给我一段有趣的变形猫头鹰的视频链接,讓我想起了一些留給我深刻印象的鳥兒:

首先想到的是產自澳洲的Kookaburra,一種會笑的胖乎乎的翠鳥,最初從澳洲朋友那兒聽說這種鳥時,全然沒想到這壯碩的大塊頭和自小熟識的體態輕盈、羽如藍緞的翠鳥竟是同類,可算得上是翠鳥中的“熊族”了:)

沒想到去年第一次和他偶然相遇,在英國西南的Abbotsbury亚热带植物園,遠遠地隔著鐵籠,沒能聽見他的笑聲。籠中之鳥,何得歡顏?

還有種會笑的鳥是噪眉,英文叫laughingthrush。初識他是在南京紫金山下的中山植物園,活動於那一帶的主要有黑臉噪眉和黑領噪眉兩種,我覺得有一種的笑聲近似於冷笑,但記不清是兩種中的哪一種了。有一次,在山里看到一群噪眉站在樹枝上,排著隊挨個兒從同伴的身上跳來跳去,就像小孩子在玩跳馬游戲一樣,實在好玩兒得很:)

愛花及鳥,我對那些以花為食的鳥兒也有特別的興趣。吸食花蜜的鳥除了美洲才有的美麗如花的蜂鳥之外,還有太陽鳥科的啄花鳥(flowerpeckers)和太陽鳥(sunbirds)。

神往已久的蜂鳥06年終於在西雅圖郊外的一個公園得以一睹英姿,後來在加州的山中和他們又有多次親密接觸,不過,所見僅3種。種數逾300的蜂鳥家族,絕大多數成員都住在中、南美洲。 07年1月號的《國家地理》有一篇圖說蜂鳥的文章,拍攝那些美輪美奐的圖片的攝影師Luis Mazariegos計劃要拍完所有330余種蜂鳥,而且他已經拍完了200多種!真是令人欽佩!

至於啄花鳥和太陽鳥,雖然中國也有分佈,但我還未曾見過。書上說,啄花鳥的羽色並不出眾,太陽鳥卻有着和蜂鳥一樣炫目的、帶著金屬般光澤的華麗羽毛。

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

買一贈五


I bought a vintage postcard on ebay from a seller in the US two weeks ago. The card was made in Austria and the post office stamp on it dated April 5, 1909. It is a charming card featuring violets, lilies-of -the-valley, easter eggs and a rabbit playing mandolin. Of course, the violets were what attracted me in the first place.

Yesterday the card came in the mail. When I opened the envelope, I was thrilled to find not only this card, but 5 other violet-adorned cards!!! The seller attached a note saying that she had sensed that I fancied violets, so she searched her collection and found a few more cards with violets, and graciously sent them all to me!

A million thanks, snohunt, you are the best of all the on-line sellers I have ever dealt with! I will pass on your kindness...

Monday, July 14, 2008

Encounters with the Titan Arum

盛開的巨花魔芋

巨葉和巴西酷哥

B給我發來一些奇花異草的圖片,其中有大花草(Rafflesia arnoldii)和巨花魔芋(Amorphophallus titanum),兩者皆產於蘇門答臘,都是世界之最:前者是最大的單朵花(single flower),後者是最大的不分枝花序(unbranched inflorescence);還有一個共同點在於它們的花香,不知可否評上另一個世界之最,反正讓它們“臭”名昭著是綽綽有餘了!

大花草我還未見過,巨花魔芋的芳澤倒是曾有幸親嘗。說來緣分確實不淺,兩年前在西雅圖街頭閒逛,偶然撞進Volunteer Park的展覽溫室,未見巨花,先聞其“香”,味之濃烈,讓人懷疑是否哪裡死了老鼠?或者有誰打破了臭雞蛋? “屍花”的別號果然實至名歸!雖然花香令人不敢恭維,但聞訊前來觀賞的人卻絡繹不絕,畢竟它是難得一見的花中異類,伺弄得好可以每年開花,但花期只有短短幾天,偏巧它怒放的第一天就讓我碰上了!為了紀念這次邂逅,我特地在温室旁的纪念品商店買了一件印有巨花魔芋圖案的T恤。

巨花魔芋花巨,葉更大。由於它是先花後葉,所以在西雅圖时沒能見到它的葉子長什麼樣。不過,去年夏天在Kew Gardens的熱帶苗圃一月苦工的收穫之一就是得以和巨花魔芋再續前緣,不僅看到了它的龐然大葉,還榮幸地為一株剛剛花畢的巨花魔芋換了盆。看看照片上的那位作為參照物(真是再堂皇不過的誘他入鏡的理由了:)坐在盆沿的巴西酷哥,你就知道那個花盆有多麼碩大了!我們換盆的那一株還算小的,過磅顯示塊莖重逾30公斤,我和一位同事足足忙活了一上午,鏟土鏟到手軟腰酸才總算換盆完畢!

大花草